Mass email home

June 14, 2006

Hi all—

Just wanted to send a mass email to let you all know where I am. The past year, I’ve been in NY doing the grad school thing. I’ve temporarily relocated to Liberia until early August for a summer internship. I’m doing some program evaluation for an HIV/AIDS project in 2 counties near Cote d’Ivoire.

I’ve been in Monrovia for about 2 weeks and live the life of a broke intern in expat’s clothing. Most packaged goods are from Lebanon and a trip to an “exotic Liberian market” only reveals outdated b-list Chinese consumer goods w/ requisite “Q.C. passed” gold stickers. The post-war economy along with the 15,000 strong UN presence brings with it $2 bottles of water and $15-25 per meal at a UN/NGO frequented dining spot. A liter of Club Beer (Liberia’s own) can be had for $1 when sitting on concrete slabs in a bar w/ a chain link fence (it’s breezier that way) or for $4 while overhearing conversations in French, German, or Russian. Apparently, beer is the spice of life for most expats I’ve met.

Luckily, I didn’t expect Monrovia to be exciting and it’s not. There used to be a functioning military tank in our front neighbor’s yard (former transitional president) but with the departure of that, it’s just a grassy alleyway down to a beach w/ ominous riptides and thus, a less interesting email to you all. I’ve also been to a couple NGO gatherings but aside from that, I’m not out much. Most expats have a driver or drive their organization-issued Land Cruiser but where do they all go during non-working hours? It’s not safe to walk around at night, especially since the city has no electricity. The place I live in runs on massive generators.

Aside from the UN helicopter rides I get to take for visits to the field, I’m happy to stay cooped up in my living space watching the World Cup. I get “live” score updates every time the alley down the street erupts into cheers. Tonight, it’s me, another intern from SIPA, and a menu of beans on toast.

One of the most interesting night scenes in Monrovia was driving home one night. I saw some kids jockey for position under a working generator-powered street lamp. As we drove closer, they pushed and they shoved. Only a second after did the driver tell me they were finishing up their homework before the light went out. Somehow, this is the best indication it’s a good time to be working here.

Tim